LED strip 220 V.
Some people, having heard all sorts of horrors about power supplies, controllers, dimmers and other additional devices, refuse to purchase an LED lamp at all. The reason for this is the "grown" price tag. If only they knew about the 220V LED strip. This is a special device that does not require a power supply to convert power to the required level. The device is powered by a full mains voltage of 220 volts. A controller is also not needed for this device, unless the owner needs to adjust the brightness and color transfer program. Colors are switched using a button on the rectifier, making the LED strip much easier to use.
Rules for installing LED strip 220 V.
Before buying an LED device, be sure to take measurements from the place where the lighting will be located. If, for example, 40 centimeters remain after decorating the entire apartment, you will not be able to cut this piece. It will remain hanging next to the main ribbon, which can completely disfigure the created interior.
One of the most common problems when installing a 220 V LED strip is the strip broke when fixing it to the ceiling. Be careful.
Types of LED strips for 220 V.
The modern LED device market offers 2 types of 220 V LED strip:
The rectifier is built into the LED strip itself.
It connects separately.
Both options are divided into lengths that are multiples of 50 centimeters or 1 meter. This rule takes place due to one peculiarity of production: 60 LEDs are located on each segment of the device. Therefore, you cannot cut off 25 centimeters or 2.3 meters, respectively, 30 and about 270 LEDs.
LED strip 220 V by the type of LEDs.
The tapes are divided according to the types of LEDs:
The first 2 types - 3528 and 5050 - are the most popular in the CIS countries. 5630 is also not little known, but it has much less demand. 2835 is rarely found in Russia and its environs.
LED strip 220 V according to the degree of protection.
Protection extends more to people than to the device itself. Protects a person from electric shock by insulating live wires.
The waterproof tube is made of silicone materials. It is widely used in places with high humidity: baths, swimming pools, saunas.
Power supply of the LED strip 220 V.
Standard 3.4V LEDs are used, which require polarized power supply. If it is not created by the polar bridge, the diodes begin to flicker, which negatively affects the person's well-being: eye pain, dizziness, nausea. To increase reliability, LEDs are usually connected in pairs. If one diode breaks down, all the current is taken by the second. The increased load will shorten the lifespan of the strip, but at least it will continue to shine.
LED strip 220 V differences in the color of the glow.
Different tapes can play in different shades. Some device can reproduce all the colors of the rainbow, while another specializes in only one. So, the classification by color:
- monochrome (monochrome);
- multicolor (RGB).
To change the intensity of the glow and set the program for the transfusion of shades, you need to acquire a special controller, which is difficult to buy separately from the tape itself. You can also change the brightness level using a dimmer, but this device will not be able to affect the change in colors and the dynamics of their play.
Features of 220V LED strip.
For the operation of this tape, as already mentioned, a voltage stabilization unit is not needed. But it should be noted that the mains voltage fluctuates between 190 and 240 V, and the device needs exactly 220 V for full and safe operation. The brightness of the lighting directly depends on the amount of Volts received: the more there are, the brighter the device shines, and vice versa. It would seem that there is something wrong with it, it shines, and it does shine. But a line that constantly receives 240 V will last significantly less than its life. Otherwise, - with a lack of voltage - of course, the device will live longer, but the lighting will turn out to be dimmer. If the power supply is unstable, the best solution would be to buy a power supply. It normalizes the operation of the device and will maintain the voltage in the network at the optimal level: 220 Volts.
The main differences between the types of devices:
- functioning features;
- possible lengths of segments into which the tape can be divided.
Application of 220V LED strip
Businessmen often use LEDs for outdoor advertising: billboards, banners, signage and other ways to attract a customer. Successful entrepreneurs are serious people who won't buy a bad product. LED lighting has been credited with ease of use, reliability, efficiency and long service life. Also, an important role was played by the relatively low cost, which decreased due to operation from the 220 network. The once obligatory power supply was removed from the entire structure, leaving only the diode bridge.
Due to the absence of a stabilizing unit, the tape voltage is pulsed with a frequency of 60 Hertz, which contributes to the flashing of the diodes. The human eye does not see the altered glow, but the central nervous system and the brain suffer from a similar phenomenon. Therefore, it is not recommended to decorate rooms in which people are constantly present. For example, a 12 and 24 V tape is more suitable for a residential building. There is an option to simply add a power supply unit for the 220 device, which will normalize all processes and protect the health of people and the device itself.
Thus, if a person wants to save money and not worsen his well-being, with an option that works from 220V, he will not be able to do this. For proper functioning, you need to purchase certain parts. Of course, you can do without them, but on condition that people are not constantly near the tape.
Advantages and disadvantages of 220V LED strips.
So, having familiarized ourselves with all the nuances of popular lighting, we can highlight all the good and bad sides.
- no need for a power supply;
- compactness of additional devices;
The straightener fits completely in your pocket.
By using thin wires instead of thick ones, money is saved and installation time is reduced.
- functionality and practicality;
The device is resistant to external influences: rain, frost, strong wind. Therefore, it can be used as street lighting.
- length up to 200 meters in one segment.
- undesirability of using in a crowded place due to flickering;
- impossibility of repair;
If the device is damaged, it cannot be repaired. You will have to buy a new one, which will significantly affect the budget.
- harm to humans during installation due to high voltage is not excluded;
- certain conditions for dividing the tape are not always comfortable for the owners.
How to connect an LED strip to 220 V.
The connection process is quite simple - you need to connect several wires, taking into account the polarity.
Algorithm of actions:
- We cut off the desired piece of a strip of 50 or 100 centimeters - you need to clarify in the instructions or on the manufacturer's website.
- When using the sealed version, we apply a sealant to the end and put on a silicone connector.
- We install the connector and fix it on the sealant.
- We connect the strip to the rectifier, observing the polarity.
- We check for tightness and the absence of moisture inside.
- We mount the tape to the required surface and plug it into an outlet.
To make the connection easier, we present a graphical diagram:
If you are still facing the question of how to connect an LED strip to 220 V?
You can read more about connecting a 220 V LED strip here.
The rectifier contains a diode bridge. The rectifier power can be 700 W. This is enough for an ordinary 100-meter ruler or for 40 meters of powerful type LED strip. The price of the device is low, so everyone can purchase a rectifier. When choosing a device, find out about its power. It must be greater than the power consumed by the tape. You can also make the regulator yourself. To do this, you need 4 diodes, soldered according to the diode bridge scheme.
LED strip 220 V is connected with wires of any thickness up to a cross-section of 0.75 square millimeters.
When installing decorative lighting or main lighting from LED strips, a task inevitably arises, which can be quite difficult for an ordinary person without electrical skills - how to properly connect LED strips to each other and to the power supply. We will try to answer this question in this article.
Ways to connect LED strip to a 220 V network
The most common types of LED strips, which are mass-produced for the Russian market and other countries, are designed to be connected to direct current with a voltage of 12 volts.
Is it possible to connect LED strip to 220 without power supply
There are connection methods that allow you to connect such tapes to the 220 V network directly: a diode bridge, capacitors and serial connection of tape segments to each other are used. But this method is inconvenient, difficult to install and impractical from the point of view of practical application. The cost of components for such a connection is comparable to the cost of purchasing a power supply, therefore, it is the connection method with the help of special step-down transformers from 220 V AC to 12 or 24 V DC that is widely used.
Wiring diagram for a 12 volt power supply
For simplicity and convenience of connection, as well as stable and clean lighting, 12-24 volt power supplies are used. Such devices are pulsed and can lower the voltage to the required one and rectify the current by forming high-frequency pulses ( 10 kHz ).
The power supply is selected based on the power of the LED strip ( which is determined depending on the type of LEDs, density and length of the tape ), making sure to leave a headroom for safe and reliable operation.
Recommendation! Choose a power supply with a power reserve of 20-30% more than the total power of the tapes that it will supply.
The power supply for LED lighting has input terminals for connecting to a 220 V network and output terminals for supplying power to the lighting device. The LED strip is connected to the transformer using wires of a certain section to the “plus” and “minus” terminals. It is important to understand that polarity is important, therefore, the poles of the tape and the poles of the power supply must match when connected ( plus to plus, minus to minus ) otherwise the system will not work. In conventional color coding, a red conductor means "plus" and a black one means "minus".
When installing lighting using LED strip, the simplest is to connect a single-color strip. Such a device is connected directly to the "plus" and "minus" of the power supply, and the power supply is connected to the network ( if necessary, switches or control devices are introduced into the circuit ). The only difficulty that can arise with such an installation is soldering wires to the contacts of the LED strip.
Power Supply Legend
Standard power supplies for LED strips have a special marking on their case, which indicates the voltage and power of the device. This information is necessary to select the required power supply for the parameters of the LED strip. To connect lighting, you only need to know the designations of the contacts to which the conductors will be connected. In general, the power supply will have L ( contact for connecting a phase conductor ) and N ( neutral wire ), and on the other there will be signs "+ V" and "-V" ( +12 V and -12 V DC ).
Some power supplies already have a plugged-in cable and do not require a separate wire to supply power to the L and N terminals, but simply plug into a wall outlet.
Connecting color RGB tape
The connecting link between the step-down transformer and the RGB LED strip is a special controller, with which you can connect such a device and control the shades of lighting or set operating modes. Without it, such a tape will be impossible to connect and use all its functions.
In general, the connection of an RGB tape looks like this: the corresponding contacts of the LED strip are connected to the controller pins marked R, G, B and V +. Further, conductors are connected to the “plus” and “minus” terminals of the controller, which are connected to the “plus” and “minus” of the transformer and then the transformer is plugged into an outlet or connected to the network in a standard way.
Note! In this circuit, there is no need to add a switch or additional control device to the circuit, as standard controllers include this function.
Each controller has a limit on the power that can be connected to it. Therefore, when several tapes are connected in parallel, a special amplifier can be used. In general, with such a connection, the circuit does not become much more complicated, since amplifiers are connected to the additional tapes, which are powered from a common powerful adapter or an additional power supply.
Power tapes connection diagram
LED strips, like any lighting fixtures, have different emissivity, which directly affects the power of the strip. For powerful devices, there are no differences from ordinary ones when connected, with the exception of more powerful power supplies and controllers ( in case of RGB version ).
When connecting high-power LED devices, it is important to consider their heating. Such tapes must be mounted on special aluminum profiles for fast and reliable heat dissipation. This will protect the tape from overheating and significantly increase the durability of such lighting.
Ways to connect multiple LED strips
Usually manufacturers produce LED strips in rolls 5 meters long. This is a standard uniform length that is comfortable for most manufacturers. For various tasks, it becomes necessary to connect several LED strips for their simultaneous operation in different parts of the premises or with a long length of the illuminated area. With such a connection, there are certain nuances and difficulties.
Parallel connection diagram
As with most lighting fixtures, the most common and convenient option is to connect LED strips in parallel. This method is suitable when simultaneous operation of tapes is required without reducing their light output.
The connection looks like this:
- Soldered to the contacts of the tapes ( or connect ) conductors;
- Further, the "pluses" of all tapes are connected to each other;
- Connect the "minuses" of all tapes;
- The common plus and common minus are connected to the corresponding poles of the transformer with the calculated power.
Ways to connect two tapes together
If it is necessary to install tapes on the same plane one after another, then they are also connected in parallel. But to simplify the circuit and save wires, such a connection can be made using connectors or short conductors.
Connecting LED strip with plastic connectors
To simplify the connection and in the absence of soldering skills ( or soldering iron ) to connect several single-color or multi-colored ribbons to each other, you can use special plastic connectors for LED strips. These are available at most electrical or lighting stores. The principle of connection using such components is simple: the contacts of the LED strips are connected to the contacts of the connector and fixed.
Connectors are either straight or designed for angles and various bending options.
The most reliable way to connect LED strips to each other is soldering. At the same time, this method is the most time consuming and requires certain skills and tools.
Such a connection can be made in two ways:
- Solder tapes directly.
This method involves soldering two pieces of tape without using conductors. The tapes are overlapped and soldered at the point of contact. This option is used when installing the tape in a conspicuous place so that it is not visible wires and the joints of the tape.
- Connect with wires
This method is the most preferable because it is reliable. Conductors are soldered to the contacts of one segment, which, in accordance with the polarity, are soldered to the other tape. Moreover, the conductors can be of any length, if necessary.
Pros and cons of various compounds
- Solder connection
- Connecting by connectors
Errors when connecting LED strip
No one is immune from mistakes, so when connecting LED strips, they are allowed by both home craftsmen and professionals. The most common mistakes when connecting LED strips are:
- Overlapping contacts when soldering;
- Overheating of the contacts with a soldering iron, due to which the integrity of the tape and contacts at the soldering point is violated;
- Incorrect calculation of the power of the power supply, connecting several tapes in terms of power exceeding the parameters of the transformer;
- Installation of powerful tapes without heat sink;
- Wrong ribbon selection ( for example, outdoor use of tapes or transformers that are not protected from moisture );
- Connecting multiple RGB tapes to one controller without amplifiers;
The use of LED strips is gaining more and more popularity. They are used both for decorative interior lighting, that is, they are included in the general design scheme, and as the main lighting. The widely practiced replacement of traditional lamps with these types of lighting fixtures is explained by their economy and practicality. The tapes consume a minimum amount of electricity, and at the same time have quite decent indicators of the generated luminous flux.
In order for such a lighting scheme, no matter whether basic or decorative, to demonstrate its effectiveness, it is necessary to correctly calculate the power of the LED strip and select its type. In addition, you need to know how to connect an LED strip so that it functions with maximum durability, without failures and complete failure.
Find out how to connect an LED strip to a computer from our new article on our portal.
LED strips and their types
General characteristics of LED strips
LED strips are a solid flexible board that can be of different widths. This board contains LEDs and other elements necessary for the operation of the circuit. The LEDs themselves can be arranged in one or two rows with the same pitch, which contributes to the uniformity of light diffusion.
To have an idea of what kind of LED strip is purchased, you need to know the decoding of the marking applied to the product. The table below shows the general designations used for these products by almost all manufacturers:
|Parameter name and value||Marking|
|Lighting device type - designation that the light source is LED||LED|
|LED strip type:|
|LEDs are located on the surface of the tape||SMD|
|LEDs enclosed in a flexible silicone cylindrical tube or covered with a silicone layer.||DIP LED|
|Dimensions of LEDs used||2835, 3528, 5050, 5630, 5730 and others|
|Density of LEDs, that is, their number per running meter of tape||30, 60, 120, 240|
|Color emitted by LEDs||CW go WW - white (cold and warm, respectively) B - blue, G - green, R - red, RGB - the ability to change the color of the glow of the tape|
|The class of protection of the product against the effects of dust and water, that is, its resistance to various operating conditions||IPxx (e.g. IP20, IP23, IP65, etc.)|
The color of the glow, in addition to the abbreviations indicated in the table, can be spelled out in a word, in English or Russian, depending on the manufacturer. Additionally, it can be clarified that ribbons with white glow (W) are produced in three shades - cold, warm and neutral. For residential premises, neutral or warm shades of white are most often used, and the cold version is more suitable for lighting office premises.
Find out what illumination, color temperature and light intensity are from our new article on our portal.
As an example, consider one of the markings:
|LED||SMD||3528||(120 LED / m)||IP20|
|LEDs||Placed openly on the surface of the tape to the surface||The size of each is 3.5 × 2.8 mm||Installation density - 120 pcs. one running meter||The product has no moisture protection.|
Specific power consumption (watts per linear meter) is indicated on the label located on the coil (coil). The value of the luminous flux emitted by one LED should also be indicated there (often also in terms of per linear meter and in comparison with the equivalent of a conventional incandescent lamp) ... The supply voltage is also mandatory.
LED sizes are subject to specific standards. The most popular options are SMD strips 3528 and 5050. One meter of 3528 strip can have 60, 120 or 240 diodes, and 5050 - 30, 60 or 120 diodes. This type of LED strip can be equipped with a self-adhesive layer on the back.
All LED strips are sold by the yard. Depending on the model, there may be a different number of diodes (installation density) on one meter.
All SMD devices have contact pads for extending the tape or assembling the required length from several pieces. On the same sites, which have a scissors icon, a tape that is too long can be cut into shorter strips.
Splicing of tape segments is done by soldering or using special LED connectors. This approach greatly simplifies and speeds up the process of switching several segments into one circuit.
The ribbons can also vary in width. So, even very narrow SMD tapes are produced, having a width of only 3 ÷ 4 mm. This allows you to mount it on the end of panels or walls of cabinets and shelves, as well as in hard-to-reach places as a backlight.
DIP LEDs are diodes that differ from those used for installation on flexible tape in their shape. They can have a diameter of 3 or 5 mm and are mounted on a central flexible conductor, on specially provided legs. Garlands assembled from such lamps are filled with silicone and can have different lengths.
Alternatively, the DIP LEDs are enclosed in a matte flexible silicone tube.
Both garlands and a tube are used not only for indoor, but also for street lighting, as they have good moisture resistance.
RGB is a multicolor version of ribbons, tubes or strings. A special controller of one type or another is responsible for the change and combination of colors, as well as their saturation, brightness and other functions of the lamp.
Power supply for LED strips
To ensure the normal and long-term operation of LED strips from a 220 V network, an energy converter is needed - a power supply. Very often, it does not come with a diode strip, and therefore it must be selected for the supply voltage and power of the device and purchased separately.
In terms of voltage, the most commonly used tapes are 12 V. In second place are products that require a voltage of 24 V.
The specific power of the tape depends on how many diodes are located on its one running meter. It can be between 4 and 25 watts. True, there are also significantly more powerful models. In any case, this must be specified when purchasing a tape and everything necessary to connect it.
To determine how much power is needed for the power supply (adapter or converter), it is necessary to multiply the specific power of one running meter of the tape by the number of meters. Then, it is recommended to add 25 ÷ 30% of the power reserve to the resulting parameter.
The result of these calculations will be the minimum power of the power supply. For example, for a five-meter SMD 3528 tape with a specific power of 9.6 W, a power supply with a minimum power of 9.6 × 5 + 25% = 60 W is desirable.
A controller is a device designed to control LED strip lights. To achieve optimal functionality of RGB tapes, you cannot do without a controller, since it is used to set the color gamut, brightness and other lighting qualities. And for monochrome, a dimmer often becomes necessary - it allows you to turn on certain parts of the general lighting system, adjust the brightness of the glow of the ribbons.
The controller can operate the system without user intervention - for example, according to the program laid down by the manufacturer, which assumes a smooth change in shades. This type of device has the most affordable cost.
Others are controlled from the remote control, which adds comfort to everyday use. The transmission of commands can be carried out through an infrared receiver or using a radio communication channel. The controller, controlled from the radio remote control, has more capabilities, as it is equipped with a large number of different lighting adjustment modes.
It is very important to choose the right power of the controller, which can be 72, 144, 180 or 288 W. As in the case of the power supply, it is better to choose a device that has a power reserve. If the indicator is lower than the LED strip has, then the controller will quickly fail.
Let's not forget about the brightness of the LED strips. Choosing them in a store or via the Internet, it is difficult to determine how they will illuminate a particular room. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to digital marking. She will tell not only about the size of the LEDs used in the strip, but also about the intensity of the luminous flux they create.
- 3528 - tapes with low luminous flux rates. One LED emits only about 4.5 ÷ 5 lm. They are suitable for decorative lighting of shelves, cabinets and worktops in the kitchen. You can use them as an additional illumination to the main lighting for a multi-tiered plasterboard ceiling.
- 5050 (5055 and 5060) - are used quite often, since LEDs emit 12 ÷ 14 lm each. That is, one meter of tape with a density of 60 LED can already give out 720 ÷ 800 lm, and this is already more than the usual incandescent lamp of 60 watts. Due to this, such tapes are suitable not only for decorative lighting, but also for the main lighting of the room. In order for the room to be well lit, it is necessary to proceed from the assumption that approximately 5 meters of this type of tape is needed for 8 m².
- 2835 is a very bright LED strip with an LED luminous intensity of 24 ÷ 28 lm. The powerful luminous flux of this product is narrowly focused. And this quality of the product can be used to illuminate individual areas or to illuminate the entire room. If the tape will play the role of the main lighting, then it will need 5000 mm per 12 m².
- 5630 (5730) are the brightest LED strips. They are used not only in residential premises, but also for lighting offices and shops. They are widely used to create advertising structures. The intensity of the directional light emitted by such LEDs can be up to 75 lumens. However, they get quite hot during operation. Therefore, when installing such tapes, aluminum heat exchangers are necessarily provided.
The level of protection of the tape against moisture and dust
Another characteristic that must be taken into account when purchasing an LED strip is the protection class. This is especially important in cases where lighting is planned to be installed in rooms with high humidity or in outdoor conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to pay attention to the alphanumeric marking. This is a two-digit number after the IP letter. The first number is the degree of protection against solids (objects) and dust. The second is resistance to conditions of high humidity and to direct ingress of water. The higher the class, the more secure the product is.
A few examples:
- IP 20 - low level of protection (there is no protection against moisture at all). Therefore, the products are designed for clean and dry rooms.
- IP 23, IP 43, IP 44 - tapes of this class are more protected from moisture and dust. Therefore, they can be used in damp and unheated rooms. For example, on a balcony or loggia, as well as along the baseboards of the floor.
- IP 65, IP 68 are tapes hermetically embedded in silicone, intended for use in conditions of any humidity, dustiness, etc. They are not afraid of direct hit of atmospheric precipitation. Resistant to sudden temperature changes over a wide range. That is, they can be safely used in street conditions.
Using LED strips
And a few more words about which rooms and which LED strips are better to use:
- For lighting shelves, hanging shelves and cabinets, SMD tape 3528 with a density of 60 LEDs is suitable. on a running meter. This is the simplest and most affordable option. The shade of the light can be selected according to your preference.
- For a bedroom or children's room, but only as additional lighting, you can install the same tape 3528 or 5050. It is recommended to choose soft white light of a neutral shade.
- In large rooms for additional or main lighting, SMD 5050 or 2835 strips are often used. These options, with the correct calculation of the required length, will do their job perfectly.
- SMD 5630 or 5730 strips are used to illuminate large areas, such as shops.
- SMD 5050 is used for lighting in the car interior, as well as RGB tape with a protection class of at least IP54.
- To decorate or illuminate an open gazebo, terrace or other garden buildings, it will be necessary to purchase tapes in a silicone protective sheath with a protection class of at least IP65.
Find out how to choose and independently connect an LED strip for lighting ceilings from our new article on our portal.
LED strip manufacturers
LED strips are in great demand today, so they are produced by a large number of manufacturers. There are especially many inexpensive Chinese-made products on the market. Such devices do not differ in high complexity, therefore, even among the "budget" options, it is quite possible to find quite reliable copies.
So that there is no doubt about the quality of the products, it is better to choose lighting elements from Russian, European or American manufacturers. These include the following companies: Osram (Germany), Joliet Technologies and Cree (USA), Cobra-250 (Russia), JOLIET (Spain) and others.
However, when purchasing LED strips from foreign companies, it must be remembered that most of their products are also produced in China. But their cost is much higher than the price of Chinese products from unknown companies.
How to connect LED strip
The simplest installation of the LED strip directly to the power supply
In this subsection, the simplest installation of a five-meter 12 V LED strip will be considered, using a 60 W power supply. This is exactly the example that was given above when explaining the calculation of the total power of the assembled circuit.
Following this diagram and the description of the operations given in the instruction table, even a home master who is far from wiring can easily connect the LED strip. The option with open wiring is shown. The power supply will be plugged into an outlet using a regular plug. And for "control" the simplest switch on the cord is used.
A table with step-by-step instructions for installing an LED strip to a 220 V network through a power supply.
|Illustration||Brief description of the operations performed|
|For the installation of the backlight, an LED strip manufactured in the PRC, purchased from an online store, is used. Cold white LED strip. It is characteristic that even during its production, sections of wires for switching are soldered to the installation site. This is not always the case - more often you have to solder yourself.|
|Each running meter of the tape has 60 LEDs.|
|Power supply unit 220/12 V, manufactured by a domestic manufacturer. The power of the device is 60 V. That is, taking into account the power reserve - just what you need.|
|To connect the power supply to a 220 V network, a piece of wire 2 × 1.5 mm with insulation of different colors is used. The length of the wire is selected depending on the installation location of the power supply and the location of the outlet. In this case, 500 mm is enough for the master.|
|In addition, a collapsible plug is used for plugging into a socket, designed for a maximum current of 10A. This is more than enough. A comment should be made right away. The power supply has a metal case. Therefore, it never hurts to connect the PE protective grounding wire to it. If in an apartment or house the internal wiring has such a circuit, then this is done without fail. In this case, a 3 × 1.5 wire and an appropriate plug are used. The earth conductor is green or green-yellow in color.|
|Next, you need a piece of wire to connect the LED strip to the power supply. A large section is not required here, 2 × 0.2 ÷ 0.5 mm² may be suitable. The length of this wire will depend on the planned installation location of the LED strip and power supply. The wire must be color-coded for the insulation of the conductors - here it will be important to observe the polarity of the connection.|
|6A switch, plugged into the power cable and often used for nightlights. The switch may not be used, but then you will have to constantly remove the plug from the socket.|
|Of the tools for work, you will need a Phillips (curly) screwdriver, a sharp knife for removing insulation and electrical tape (heat shrink tube). In this example, the master does without a pallet, since two conductors are already soldered to the mounting pad of the purchased LED strip. But often, soldering the wires to the tape is not enough, especially if it was purchased in the store not with a whole coil, as in this case, but by the footage.|
|The first step is to connect the power cable (2 × 1.5) to the plug. To do this, unscrew the plug and remove the "legs" from it. The wire, previously stripped of insulation, is inserted into the terminals on the "legs" and fixed with screws. The plug may have other terminals - it's easy to figure this out.|
|Further, the pin contacts - "legs" connected to the wires are installed in the plug body in their places. The fork is fully assembled and secured with a screw.|
|Now the other end of the wire must be connected to the power supply. The connection is made to the "sockets" marked L and N. The polarity, in this case, can be disregarded.|
|The ends of the wire must be stripped and twisted in advance with a "pigtail". Then the cover is lifted to cover the contacts.|
|Further, screws are unscrewed from the terminal sockets "L" and "N". The stripped ends of the wire are put on them, on which it is necessary to form a ring with a diameter approximately equal to the diameter of the terminal screw.|
|Then the screws are installed and fixed in the terminal. So far, polarity can also be ignored. If a three-core cable is used, then the grounding conductor is connected in its terminal, with a characteristic grounding symbol or marked with the symbols PE.|
|The next step is to strip the ends of the wire intended for connecting the LED strip. This wire must be connected to the pins marked with the letters V- and V +. Here, attention is already drawn to the color coding of the insulation of the wires. For example, a black wire is connected to V- and a red wire to V +. Colors can be different, depending on the type of wire. But it is important to immediately understand well which will go to the "minus", which will go to the "plus".|
|The terminals in this case are the same as at the input of the power wire - screws. That is, the connection has no special features.|
|Also, "rings" are formed around the screws, then the screws are inserted into their slots and tightened with a screwdriver.|
|Now special attention is needed. - it's time to connect the wire from the power supply to the LED strip. Since in this example the LED strip already has mounting "cold ends", they are twisted with the stripped ends of the wires coming from the power supply. If insulation with a heat-shrinkable tube is assumed, then its segments are put on the wires in advance before they are connected. Here it is very important to take into account the polarity of the connection - that is why color marking of the conductor insulation is needed. Most often, a red wire is soldered to the "plus" of the LED strip, and a black wire to the "minus". But it doesn't hurt to check it again - there are always polarity symbols on the tape mounting area. If you break it, the scheme will not work.|
|Wire connections can be made by twisting or soldering. After this connection, it is necessary to insulate with electrical tape or pull the previously put on pieces of heat shrinkage on them, and then warm it up to compress it. It is clear that contact between the wires must be completely excluded. Therefore, the joints can be bent in different directions and insulated separately, and then carefully assembled together under another layer of insulation.|
|Now you can test the assembled system by plugging it in. If all connections are made correctly, the tape should light up. But you cannot leave a tape wound in a bay or on a reel for a long time. Checked - and that's enough.|
|To proceed to the next stage of work, it is necessary to unplug the plug from the socket, disconnecting the power to the assembled system. Further, if it is decided to install a switch on the power cord, then you can proceed to this stage of work.|
|The switch must be disassembled by unscrewing the screws securing the case. Then the case must be tried on to the power wire in the place where the tie-in is planned to be made. With the help of a marker, marks are made on the outer sheath of the wire, along which the insulation will be removed. The distance between the marks should be 15 ÷ 20 mm less than the length of the circuit breaker body.|
|Further, according to the marks, cuts are carefully made in the outer insulating sheath of the wire. In this case, the insulation of the wires passing through the inside should not be touched.|
|When the outer insulation is removed, the neutral conductor is selected and cut. Further, its ends are cleaned. The phase conductor remains intact. (However, this "polarity" still remains conditional, since such a plug can be plugged into an outlet in one of two ways. That is, where exactly the phase will be located, and where zero is difficult to say).|
|The stripped ends of the cut wire are twisted, and then they must be fixed in the terminals of the switch with screws. A whole, uncut wire is tucked neatly on the other side of the key.|
|Then the cover is placed on the switch and tightened with screws. As a result, a cord hidden under the outer insulating shell should come out of the switch body on both sides.|
|Finally, a final short-term test of the assembled system is carried out - this time using the switch on the power cord.|
For safety reasons, it is recommended to place the power supply so that there is no possibility of touching its case. Sometimes a plastic case is used. For the power wires and going to the LED strip, holes are cut in its walls.
If the LED strip after assembly did not light up or quickly failed, then there can be only two reasons for this:
- Low-quality products - power supply or tape.
- Incorrect assembly of the lighting system. Most likely, the error lies in the wrong polarity of the connection.
By the way, one important remark can be made to the wizard in the example shown. It is quite possible (and necessary) to avoid unnecessary fiddling with wires when switching them in the terminals of the power supply if you use press-on terminal lugs. Their cost is cheap, and work becomes easier faster, contacts are more reliable.
Diagrams of other options for connecting LED strips
And now - about other, more complex connection options that are often used when installing LED strips.
- If you plan to connect two SMD LED strips in parallel, then each of them should have a length of no more than 5000 mm. And if it is necessary to increase the length, use a serial connection, if the total is more than 5 meters, it is unacceptable. This is due to the fact that the conductive capacity of the tape is designed specifically for lengths up to 5000 mm. If it is exceeded, then the load will also increase, which means that the tape will quickly fail. During the period of operation, it will be noticeable that the LEDs burn unevenly. That is, on one side of the tape, the light will be bright, and then gradually begins to fade.
- If you plan to connect three parallel LED strips to one power supply, then the principle does not change. But with any parallel connection of several tapes, the total power is necessarily taken into account. The power supply must be able to withstand such a load (with the already mentioned margin).
- If there is no power supply unit of sufficient power for the simultaneous parallel connection of several long tapes, then each of them can be connected to its own block with the required parameters. And already for the blocks, provide a common switching system.
Connecting LED strip through a dimmer
To diversify the capabilities of the LED strip, it is often connected not directly to the power supply, but through a special device - a dimmer. This is a kind of regulator, often equipped with a remote control, which allows you to change the brightness of the glow, due to the variability of the output parameters of voltage or current. Often, dimmers also have built-in controllers that add a number of useful (and not so) functions. For example, flickering with a certain frequency or according to a set program, response by changing the brightness to sound, and more. And you can't do without a dimmer with a controller when it comes to connecting an RGB tape.
Dimmers can have several outputs. That is, to be initially ready to connect several LED strips in parallel. An example will be shown below - in the table with installation instructions.
We will not consider here too complex "multi-tiered" circuits, which often require special amplifiers. This task is best left to an experienced electrical installer. But some schemes are quite accessible for a novice home craftsman.
With all the variety of dimmers, they are always installed between the power supply and LED strips. Naturally, the characteristics of this device (voltage, power) must correspond to the assembled system.
On the side of the power supply, the wires are connected to the (INPUT) input. And from the output (OUTPUT) there is a commutation to the LED strip. Naturally, both there and there polarity is strictly observed. When connecting RGB tapes, the "color pinout" is also important. But as a rule, for such connections, the dimmer is equipped with special adapters, so it is difficult to confuse the contacts.
The scheme of parallel connection of several LED strips through a dimmer with one output is shown below. In principle, there is nothing new.
True, there may be nuances. In particular, when regulating the intensity of the tape's glow, that is, when the supply voltage decreases, the difference between the brightness of the LEDs located closer to the beginning of the tape and to its end often becomes more pronounced. Moreover, this is noticeable even with quite acceptable lengths (up to 5 meters). To avoid such a disadvantage, two-way tape connection is practiced. So the difference in the parameters of the current along the entire length of the tape is leveled. Moreover, this becomes relevant when several tapes are connected.
Connecting LED strip ceiling lighting via a dimmer - step by step
The table below shows the step-by-step instructions for wiring LED strips. They are installed permanently in the structure of a two-tiered suspended ceiling. They can work both together with the main lighting of the room, and separately. Four bands are used that completely encircle the perimeter of the room. To connect them and control their work, a dimmer is used, which has four parallel outputs.
This example will help you understand the installation principles. Well, your own project will not be so difficult to draw up, based on the specific features of the premises and the owners' plans for its design.
|Illustration||Brief description of the operations performed|
|The work, if you think wisely, should be planned and started at the stage of wiring in the apartment. The power switching of the LED backlight will be done in the junction box, to which the connector for the power cable is laid. Below the box is a socket outlet - there will be a switch for the main lighting of the room.|
|A power cable VVGng 3 × 1.5 mm is laid to the junction box from the switchboard. This section will be enough to illuminate.|
|In the switchboard, the protective sheath has been removed from the cable, the wires are separated. The phase wire (white) connects to a dedicated 10 amp circuit breaker.|
|The blue wire (zero) is connected to the working zero bus. And finally, green-yellow - to the protective earth bus.|
|The same power cable is in the back box. It is also cut, the wires are divorced, stripped of insulation by 8 ÷ 10 mm. And so that later there was no confusion, it is better to mark them immediately. L - white, phase, N - blue, zero, PE - green-yellow, ground.|
|The next step from the box is a piece of the same cable to the place of the planned installation of the power supply. Since it will be hidden by the structure of the suspended ceiling, you can use open wiring, but without fail enclosing the cable in a corrugated pipe.|
|This cable is also striped in a box. Its wires are stripped, routed as shown in the illustration. The phase wire is marked Lled, the rest - N and PE - by analogy with the power cable. It is not shown here, but at this stage, a piece of cable is immediately inserted into the box, which goes in a stripe to the socket, where the main lighting switch will be installed. Depending on whether the switch will be one- or two-key, the cable should have two or three wires.|
|After that, you can start finishing the walls - the punches with the laid cables are plastered, putty. The illustration shows a well installed switch socket with a cable inserted into it. Further - the installation of the frame structure for the suspended plasterboard ceiling is carried out.|
|In a pre-designated place, a shelf is mounted from a plywood (chipboard) panel or from drywall, where the power supply and dimmer will be located. The corrugated power cable from the junction box must fit to this shelf. The place of the shelf is usually chosen so that the length of the cable is minimal, and access to the devices installed on it is provided, if one or another repair or maintenance work is required.|
|The cable is cut, the ends of the wires are stripped by 8 ÷ 10 mm, and then clamped in the terminals of the power supply. White, respectively, in the L terminal, blue in the N terminal, and green-yellow in the terminal with a characteristic grounding symbol. Since a VVGng 3 × 1.5 cable with solid wires is used, no modifications are required - the stripped ends are perfectly clamped in screw terminals with pressure contacts.|
|The next step is to connect the dimmer to the power supply. For this, two pieces of a PGV mounting wire with a cross section of 1 mm² are being prepared. For convenience, two colors of PUGV insulation are used. Red here and everywhere else will connect the "plus" contacts. Black, respectively, "minus". The length of the wire segments is not needed here, just so that there is not enough interference from the power supply to the dimmer. Since the PGV wire has a multi-wire structure, terminal lugs are put on and pressed onto the stripped ends - so the contacts will become more reliable. Pay attention to the dimmer. At its output (Output Led) there is one common contact V +, and four contacts V-. This allows you to connect four LED strips up to 5 meters long.|
|The wires are connected to the power supply. First, the black wire is clamped in the V- ... terminal.|
|… And then red at the V + terminal.|
|After that, the cover is removed from the dimmer, the closing terminals at the Input (Input), and the wires are clamped in them in compliance with the above polarity. The cover can then be replaced.|
|The next stage of work is the laying of power wires for LED strips from the place where the dimmer is installed to their connection nodes. There are two such nodes in the room - in diagonally opposite corners. That is, two ribbons going along the converging walls will be connected by rays from the corner. Here is one such node….|
|... and this is the second one, in the diagonal opposite corner. Three PGV wires are connected to each node in a corrugated pipe: one common red and two black.|
|The opposite ends of these wires converge on the shelf at the location of the dimmer.|
|The ends of the wires are stripped, tips are pressed onto them. In this case, two red wires are collected in one lug, since they will be clamped in one terminal.|
|Black wires are clamped in terminals V- ...|
|... and then the paired red conductor is at the V + terminal. In fact, all electrical work on the shelf is complete.|
|In the tape connection nodes, the wires must also be stripped first ...|
|... and then the terminal lugs are pressed onto them. The length of the wires here should be such that it was possible to bring them out from under the plasterboard lining - for subsequent switching with LED strips.|
|Now you need to finish work in the junction box.|
|We immediately draw attention to the changes that have occurred in the box. A cable is wound from below to the switch (shown with a red arrow). Top right (shown with a yellow arrow) - the cable going to the main lighting devices of the room. All cables are stripped and their wires are divided into four groups. With zero (blue) and ground (green-yellow), everything is simpler - they just come together. The phase of the power line (L) will be connected to the phase going to the power supply (Lled) and to the L wire going to the main light switch (the group is surrounded by a white oval). The L1 wire returning from the switch will be connected to the phase going to the main lighting (highlighted in an orange oval).|
|Then these groups of wires are connected - it is convenient to do this using the Wago terminals, as shown in the illustration. Thus, the power supply of the LED strips is permanently connected to the network, and they are controlled exclusively through a dimmer. If desired, you can also power the LED strips (more precisely, their power supply) through the switch. Then a two-key model is placed, and a three-core cable is laid from the box to it. One wire is the same phase from the power input. And at the output from the switch, one wire will be connected to Lled, and the second - to the L1 wire, which goes to the main lighting. It turns out one more terminal in the box.|
|After that, you can finish with the installation of a plasterboard false ceiling. The yellow arrow in the figure shows the output window of the wires of one of the switching nodes of the LED strips. The same exit is available on the diagonally opposite corner. The LED strips themselves are undesirable to attach to drywall. To do this, use a special aluminum profile (shown with a red arrow), which is pre-installed at the required height. The profile also provides proper heat dissipation during the operation of the backlight, and it is much easier and more convenient to attach the tape to it.|
|Such profiles can have a different design, including often equipped with light diffusers. In addition to flat ones, there are also corner profiles that direct the light in the desired direction. The choice depends on the type and size of the tape, and on the specific installation conditions.|
|The LED strip itself is being prepared for installation. If there is a need to cut it to the desired size along the length, then this is done exclusively in the places indicated by the corresponding icon. After cutting, on each side, there are mounting pads with the applied polarity of the connection.|
|Now it is necessary to connect the pieces of the mounting wire to the tape, which will be switched in the connecting nodes. The connection can be made using special connectors. But if they are not there, then the wires are soldered in compliance with the polarity and color marking. It is important not to overheat the tape pads. Therefore, firstly, the stripped ends of the wires must first be properly tinned. Secondly, soldering is carried out with a soldering iron with a power of up to 25 W, with a well-sharpened and tinned tip. The soldering time for each contact should not exceed a maximum of 10 seconds, otherwise you can burn the tracks.|
|The length of the wires is taken such that they are free, without tension, but without a large surplus, they reach the switching node. The ends of the wires are stripped, terminal lugs are installed and pressed onto them.|
|LED strips are fixed in profiles. The wires soldered to them converge at the junction. Three red wires will come together - one from the laid wiring and two from the tapes. And the black ones are assembled in two pairs, from the wiring and from each tape separately, as required in this case by the device of the output terminals of the dimmer.|
|For the final connection, the Wago terminals are again used. One triple for red wires, and two double for black.|
|Similar operations are carried out with two other belts, at the opposite connecting node. After switching it will look something like this.|
|Now you can finish with finishing - a ceiling plinth (baguette) is glued around the perimeter, which will hide both the LED strips laid in the profiles, and the switching nodes in the corners.|
|In fact, the installation of LED strips is over. Installation of main lighting devices is in progress (the figure shows, for example, the central plafond and a string of spotlights). The switch is connected.|
|After that, the commutation is checked again, and a test run can be carried out. The machine turns on in the switchboard. And then - the switch in the room. If everything is functioning properly, the foreman can be congratulated on the successful completion of the work.|
|And, of course, by manipulating the dimmer's remote control, you can “play” with the light intensity levels from the LED strips.|
* * * * * * *
We hope that the information presented above will help you cope with the installation of LED strip lighting of any complexity. It is important to understand how, in principle, the connection is made, what are the similarities and differences in different schemes. Then other options will not seem difficult.
At the end of the publication - a video in which the master shares his secrets on installing LED strip lighting for the working area in the kitchen.
Video: How to illuminate a worktop in a kitchen with LED strip
- Main characteristics
- 1.1. LED type
1.2. Number of LEDs
1.3. Power consumption and operating voltage
1.4. Glow color and shades of white
1.5. IP protection class
Connection diagram in 4 stages and 2 important nuances
1. Main characteristics
The modern light sources discussed in this article are created from light elements labeled Surface Mounted Device (SMD), which translates as "surface mount devices". LEDs and resistors that control the current are soldered onto a long, narrow strip. The LED strip is powered by a rectifier and a voltage transformer combined into a power supply. It provides a voltage of 12 V for the operation of the tape, has a rectifying diode bridge with an RC filter at the output, which is designed to smooth out voltage surges from the household network. It is not recommended to connect the product directly to a 220 V network, as this will damage the tape, and the diodes will burn out due to overload. Before talking about the connection diagram, let us recall the characteristics of the tape that are important for installation.
1.1. LED type
Can be as follows: SMD 3028, SMD 5050 and SMD 5050 RGB. The numbers indicate the size of the crystals. For example, one crystal for a 30x28 micron chip, and three crystals for a 50x50 micron chip. That is, the more crystals, the brighter the LED shines. But the brighter the glow of the diode, the more it heats up during operation and the shorter its service life. Each type of diode has a certain angle of light propagation - from 120 to 160 °.
1.2. Number of LEDs
Affects the saturation of the luminous flux. Today 60 LEDs per 1 m is the most popular option, although you can find strips with 120 LEDs per meter and 240 LEDs on sale. In the latter variant, they are arranged in pairs, one under the other. Thus, the LED strip will give more light, the more diodes on it.
1.3. Power consumption and operating voltage
It is calculated on the basis of the power consumed by the diodes on a segment of 1 m. A strip with 60 LEDs per 1 m has a power of 4.8 W, with 120 diodes - 9.6 W, with 240 diodes - 16.8 W. Multiplying this value, for example, by 16 m, we get the power that the entire tape consumes. It is important to find out this value before buying a power supply unit, since an insufficiently powerful unit will not provide the necessary glow of the diodes. In addition, the power supply must have a power reserve of at least 30%. Modern tapes have an operating voltage of 12, 24, less often 36 V (appeared on the market relatively recently).
1.4 Glow color and shades of white Divide tapes into monochrome and multicolor - RGB. The former give a glow of one shade, for example, warm or cold white, red, yellow, green, etc. Today there is no LED that would give a pure white glow, so it can be obtained in two ways: turn on all the diodes simultaneously on the RGB tape and set the same brightness, and use blue LEDs coated with a phosphor on a monochrome tape. Outwardly, it looks like a light yellow spot covering a blue LED crystal. But over time, the properties of this substance are lost, so that the glow from pure white gradually begins to turn bluish. The brightness of such a phosphor LED strip can decrease by 20 - 30% after months. If we talk about multi-color, then the rgb tape has chips with three LEDs: red, blue, green. It emits hundreds of different colors and shades thanks to a separate power supply for each LED. That is, you can ignite crystals of one color at 50% brightness, the second - at 100%, and the third one cannot be ignited at all. Thus, you can adjust the hue of the glow and its saturation. The connection of the rgb tape provides for a controller connected to the remote control: by pressing its buttons, you can adjust any shade of the color of the LEDs, as well as the ability to change colors.
1.5. IP protection class Important for the selection of tape mounting locations. The lowest level of protection IP20 makes it possible to mount it in places where moisture is excluded, for example, you get a successful LED illumination of the ceiling of a bedroom or furniture. The IP65 tape is splash and water vapor resistant. You can buy such LED strips for bathroom lighting, and in some cases for street lighting. For a bath or sauna, you should connect a waterproof tape with a standard of at least IP65, for example, LS35287-120LED-IP68-W-eco-5m. The IP68 tape is 100% waterproof and can be mounted under water, no deeper than 1 m, or even frozen in ice. Well suited for lighting any outdoor object and rooms with a high level of humidity - aquariums, swimming pools, etc.
2. Connection diagram in 4 stages and 2 important nuances Stage 1. Checking the operation of the tape.
Before powering and connecting the LED strip, i.e. before you start cutting it, turn it on and let it run for 2 - 4 hours. If defects are found, the tape can be handed over to the seller under warranty, otherwise he will not accept it, citing a violation of the integrity of the goods.
Stage 2. Selecting a piece of tape. Most often on sale there are tapes with a length of 5 m, sometimes 40 m.If you want to create soft lighting in a bedroom or living room, choose a tape with a length of 5 m or more with a LED density of 60 by 1 m, for example IEK ECO LED LSR-3528. If you need accent lighting, take short lengths of tape with a density of 30 LEDs per 1 m or less, for example, LS5050-30LED-IP68-RGB-eco-5m. And in this case, you will need to cut it. Cutting the tape is done with scissors or a knife - only at specially marked places. They look like yellow dots - pins for connection (the figure shows the cut location of the LED strip). The cutting step for a live tape must be a multiple of 1 m. For a single-row tape, the cutting step must be a multiple of three LEDs, for a double-row tape — six.
- Stage 3. Connecting pieces of LED strip.
It can be done in two ways. The first is using connectors. They do not require any special skills to use. You just need to slide the latch (clamping plate), then slide the connector onto the LED strip contact, and then put the latch back in place. After that, the connector wire is connected to the contacts on the power supply.
- The second way is soldering. This will require a soldering iron, rosin and good lighting. Before soldering, the tip of the soldering iron should be cleaned so that there is no burning and dirt on it. The working temperature for the soldering iron is in the range of 210 - 260 ° С. Before soldering, the contact pads of the LED strip must be tinned, and after a short time, they must be soldered. The base of the tape is very thin, so it is not recommended to hold the soldering iron on one contact for more than 10 seconds, otherwise the tape could burn through. After finishing the work, it is necessary to clean the place of soldering with any sharp object in order to get rid of the remains of lud. Soldering is more reliable, since the LED strip, soldered to the power supply with your own hands, will not lose the quality of contact with it, which sometimes the connectors sin.
Stage 4. Connecting the tape to the power supply.
Most modern power supply models have wires for connecting to a 220 V network, one of them is equipped with a plug. Reduced voltage wires come out of the power supply unit - 12, 24 or 36 V. In order not to confuse the polarity, remember that red means "+", black (or blue) - "-". But even if you reverse the polarity, when you turn on the diodes simply will not light up. Incorrect polarity will not damage them - reverse it.
If you are connecting multiple pieces of tape
If you are going to connect several sections, you should not connect them in series, i.e. to each other. This will create overheating on the first section of the tape and will not provide sufficient tension on the second. As a result, both tapes will not work as expected. The correct connection option is parallel, i.e. you connect the wires coming out of the power supply to the inputs of two pieces of tape at once. Connect the first segment as usual, and lead individual wires from the power supply to the second. So, each segment is connected independently.
If you connect RGB tape
The power supply is connected to a 220 V network, you need to connect the controller to it. At the output of the controller, wires of appropriate sizes are provided, to which the contacts of the LED strip are connected. Correct connection can be checked by matching the emitted light with the included color of the diode.
LED strip is a modern decor element that will serve not only for interior decoration, but also for accent lighting. The devices are durable and environmentally friendly, consume little energy and take any shape, emit directional and uniform light in a wide color spectrum. In the section of our site you will find many options for LED lighting and tools and accessories for installation. Choose and place your order right now!
- How to connect LED strips - diagram
- 220 Volt LED strip is a strip that does not need a power supply. It can be directly connected to an alternating voltage network, roughly speaking directly into an outlet or through a switch or photo relay.
True, for this you need a special wire. This wire has a diode bridge - rectifier in its design.1
The cost of such a cord is $ 2-3. Compare that to PSU prices!
Also, to connect you will need:2
What are the advantages of 220V LED strip?
As mentioned above, it does not require a power supply.
This results in significant overall cost savings.
LED strip 220V can be connected in series up to 100 meters.3
You no longer have to solder parallel pieces by connecting them several meters apart.
It can immediately go in coils with a length of 50-100 meters.4
That is, if you need to lay the backlight over a large extended area, simply unwind it from the reel. At one end, connect a plug with a wire having a diode bridge, plug it into an outlet and that's it. Enjoy the lighting.
If you need to illuminate an area of 100 meters, take one coil, plus one connector and connect it. True, a tape of this length should be low-power - up to 10 watts.
Also keep in mind that at the junction of the individual pieces, there will be small "dips" of lighting due to the inserts and the large distance between the LEDs.
The LED strip immediately comes in silicone with a degree of protection IP65 - IP68.
It can be wiped with a damp cloth, cleaned. This also results in automatic protection against rain, snow, etc.
220V tapes do not have strict requirements for the minimum cross-section of power wires.1
If in copies of 12 and 24V it is recommended that all lighting be powered from wires with a cross section of 1.5mm2 and above,
then for 220V you can choose smaller sections.
True, here the mechanical strength of the veins will already play a large role, and not their electrical resistance and current conductivity.2
It would seem that the advantages of such a tape are undeniable. Why do many still refuse it in favor of other options connected via power supplies?
Because, in addition to the listed advantages, it has a number of significant disadvantages, because of which people refuse to work with it flatly.
The first drawback, oddly enough, stems from its very first advantage. This is the lack of a power supply.
If it is not there, then there is no filtering and stabilizing element in the circuit. That is, all the voltage drops and surges that occur in the network will directly affect the LED strip.
The voltage in the outlet has dropped - the voltage will also drop on the LEDs. Accordingly, they will shine with the wrong brightness. The voltage has increased - the LEDs are likely to burn out.3
This tape must not be cut into such small lengths as 12 and 24V tapes.
Depending on the type of LED, it can be cut off:
That is, you cannot cut a 220-volt LED strip in less than half a meter.
This is all directly related to the voltage drop. On each LED, it is between 3 and 3.5 volts. The result is approximately a segment with a minimum number of 60 LEDs. This is exactly half a meter.
Thus, if you need illumination of a short section of 30 or 80 cm, then you will not be able to do this.
This disadvantage again stems from the absence of a stabilization and filtering device in the circuit - a power supply.4
Thanks to the diode bridge in the box, which comes with a piece of cable for connection, there is some smoothing of the ripple. But this is not enough.
Your eyes may not visually see this, however, according to all standards, such a pulsation frequency is not acceptable in residential premises.
The intensity of the ripple is very clearly visible on the camera in this video:
Thus, the LED strip installed in a house or apartment will constantly flicker and affect your health, your eyes and well-being.
Constant headaches are quite possible. And you won't even guess what they are.5
Another drawback, again stemming from the advantage, is the silicone coating.
If you have a powerful tape (more than 7W per 1 meter), then it will get very hot. Accordingly, it is necessary to remove heat from it and stick it on the aluminum profile.
However, due to the fact that it is in silicone on all sides, there will be no full contact with the aluminum substrate. In fact, complete cooling cannot be achieved in this way. Especially in the summer, it will constantly overheat. And this, in turn, directly affects the service life of the product as a whole. Plus, the silicone in inexpensive belts tends to be smelly. Even when cold. And when it heats up, the smell will only intensify. A very long period of operation must pass for this smell to partially or completely disappear.6
220V LED strip is not safe.
It's one thing to install and maintain 12V products, and quite another to deal with 220V. You need to work here in compliance with safety rules.
It is unacceptable that somewhere there is not a sealed section or protruding pieces of wires. Remember the silicone shell plays here
primarily the role of your protection against high voltage
, and only then protects the tape from water.7
Short service life and low brightness.
Most of the 220V tapes found in stores are of poor quality. They use unreliable LEDs. Because of this, they fail even faster.
The average service life of such products is 1 year.
After that, you will have to go to the store again and buy a new one. And this is not counting the labor costs for re-installation.
In addition, take into account the fact that even with the same power per 1m, the 220 LED strip will be inferior in brightness to the same product, but for a voltage of 12 and 24V.
- No self-adhesive backing.
You will not be able to stick the tape anywhere without additional accessories. You will have to buy additional clips for installation, or use ordinary cable ties.
- You can adapt fasteners for home wiring for this case:
If you do not want unnecessary fasteners to spoil the backlight, use automotive double-sided tape. But again, from the heating temperature, it can easily peel off.
In order to connect a 220 Volt LED strip, you will need:
the tape itself
At the beginning, it should have holes for the connector plug, through which the contacts are connected to the power cord.
220V plug with diode bridge rectifier and connector at the end
It is needed for security purposes. And he puts on at the very end of the segment.
First of all, insert the plug-connector into the holes located along the edges of the silicone. Thus, you connect it to the supply wires running along the entire surface.
In fact, in the tape itself, parallel connection is thus implemented. And it turns out that the total current throughout the entire length does not go along the tracks, but along these two conductors.
Next, connect the power cord. Here you will need to observe the polarity.
By the fork itself it will not be clear where the plus "+" and where the minus "-" is. This needs to be found out experimentally, for example with a multimeter.
After that, look for the positive and negative contacts on the tape itself. Stick the tape with the plug-connector into the outlet connectors of the cord. On the reverse side, immediately put on the plug.
For complete sealing, it will be necessary to coat all joints and cracks with hot glue at the points of connection of the connector and plugs.
It remains to plug the whole thing into an outlet and enjoy the lighting.
It happens that the polarity is still confused. Don't worry, nothing will close or explode. The tape just won't glow.
To fix the problem, simply pull out the connector, flip the connector, and plug it back in.
Based on the foregoing, it is not recommended to use 220V LED strip indoors. And even more so it is not safe to hang it in bathrooms, saunas, near a washbasin, etc.
First of all, it is ideal for outdoor installation - lighting facades, fences, architectural elements.
- Very often it is used on billboards, signs, as an attraction of attention. Can also be used in winter, on New Year's Eve, to decorate trees in the courtyard of the house.
- The voltage in the household power supply network is 220 volts. LED strips used for backlighting in the interior must be connected exclusively through a power supply, which not only lowers the voltage supplied to the strip, but also smoothes alternating current fluctuations. However, there are led strips that contain a large number of emitters, and therefore are designed for the level of the mains voltage without any lowering. How to connect a diode strip to 220 volts will be discussed in this article.
- 220V LED strip - what is it and how to connect it
- Conventional LED strip has a standard length of 5 meters. Typically, it is divided into 5 cm sections. You can cut the tape exclusively along these lines, which in some cases are even made in the form of perforations. Each such 5cm block contains several emitting crystals connected in series - this brings the voltage for each crystal to the required value.
Depending on the voltage for which the entire tape is designed, on each 5-centimeter section there is a certain number of LEDs, a multiple of three:
if the tape is designed for 12 volts, then there are 3 crystals on one cut-off section; if at 24 volts, then there are already 6 crystals;
if it is 110 volts, then there are already 30 emitters, and the cut-off section is not 5, but already 50 cm long;
and if the LED strip is designed for 220V, the connection of which will be discussed in detail later, then there will be as many as 60 LED crystals on a half-meter cutting section.
- In tapes designed for direct connection to a 220 volt network, each SMD crystal consumes 3.5 Volts: these are SMD 5630 diodes; 3528; 5050; 2835; 3014. 60 diodes connected in series are concentrated on the cutting unit, that is, the total voltage consumption in theory should be 210 V.
- However, the network gives 220 V, and sometimes even 230 V, and a feature of 220-volt tapes with especially bright emitters SMD 5630
is that the diodes in them operate with a slight overvoltage - for each crystal there is a maximum of 3.83 Volts.
For led strips with 60 crystals per 0.5 meter, the diodes are arranged in 2 rows. In this case, if you count, it turns out that on a standard 5-cm area there are 6 crystals with extremely high luminosity. In addition, such a 220V LED strip without a power supply is used to decorate objects located outside the enclosing structures - in the open air.
Strips with SMD 5630 diodes have the following unique power consumption characteristics:
The power consumption is 10 W / r.m. the length of the tape.
Light-emitting diode crystals have an extremely high efficiency - more than 83% of the energy they consume is converted into useful light, however, the remaining 17% inevitably turns into heat. As a result, the tape heats up pretty much. To prevent such a tape from melting, a thick foil is used as a base for its manufacture, covered with a heat-resistant polymer on both sides. The metal not only provides the strength of the entire tape as a whole, but also efficiently dissipates heat along its entire length.
How to connect a 220 volt LED strip? It would seem that connecting a diode tape to 220 V can be done in a simple way, that is, directly. But diodes are designed in such a way that they pass current in one direction and do not pass in the other. Therefore, if the connection of the LED strip to the 220 V network is carried out without a rectifier previously inserted into the circuit, then all the crystals on the strip will flash at a frequency of 50 times per second.
Such, and even 2 times higher frequency (that is, 100 Hz), according to SanPIN, is not acceptable, especially in residential premises. For the human eye, such light will be perceived as flickering ripples, which will quickly tire the eyes.
Before connecting the diode strip to 220 V AC, a rectifier should be inserted into the circuit. This device contains several capacitors that accumulate a charge in themselves when the current flows in one conditional direction and give this charge to the circuit when the direction of current movement changes. Thus, the rectifier converts the AC to DC without any undervoltage.
However, this is not all. Rectifier operation is "rough". Its main function is to ensure that the electrons follow in the same direction. Therefore, the circuit for connecting the LED strip to 220 V, in addition to the rectifier, must also include a controller. This device is an analogue of a rectifier, only its task is to stabilize, smooth out any, even very weak, fluctuations in the potential difference. Modern rectifiers, as a rule, contain a controller block inside them, which allows them to deliver an even current and even smooth out fluctuations in the network.
If we are talking about a 220V RGB LED strip, which is color, then its installation must be carried out through the same RGB controller.
How to connect an LED strip with a lower voltage to 220V
In addition to 220V LED strips, the connection of which is carried out without a power supply, there are LED strips on the market designed for voltages of 12, 24 and 110 volts, and there are most of such products. How to connect such diode strips to 220 V?
Above, the so-called power supplies or adapters were repeatedly mentioned, and it is on them that such functionality lies as powering an LED strip from 220 volts. Adapters are mini-transformers where there are 2 winding coils. The ratio of the number of turns of these coils corresponds to the ratio of the incoming and outgoing voltages. Therefore, for adapters, the indicators of the mains voltage with which it can work and the voltage that it is ready to provide for the diode tape are always deterministic.
Modern adapters for led emitters are usually equipped with both rectifiers and controllers, as well as current limiters. That is why such a unit is called a control unit. As a result, at the output, the user has a power supply that meets the needs of his led strip, even if it has a non-standard length.
- However, it should be remembered that if you independently connect a glowing tape designed for 12-110 volts to an outlet without a power supply, the tape will burn out, regardless of whether or not there was a rectifier in the circuit. The fact is that such a voltage generates a current that is too large for the tape section of the wiring, as a result of which the cores will melt very quickly.
- Before connecting an LED strip with a lower voltage to 220V, make sure that there is a power supply in the circuit whose power meets the standard: the total consumption of the led strip is + 25%.
How to connect a 12 or 24 V LED strip to 220 V
- The defining parameter here is the power consumption. The length of the tape can be very different, especially if you made it from separate pieces, soldering them together, which greatly affects the energy consumption.
- Power consumption depends on two parameters and has 2 main limitations:
Power consumption depends on the length of the led strip, which should not exceed the standard coil length of 5 meters. –The maximum energy for the luminous tape is set by the power supply. It is he who provides the outgoing voltage, which is the determining parameter of the power supply. Therefore, before connecting a 12 V diode strip to 220 V, you should pick up a tape measure and accurately measure the length of the luminous strip, or even better, recalculate the diodes in order to accurately determine the nominal power consumption and select a power supply that is suitable for the output indicators. ...
If your task is how to connect several LED strips to a 220 V network and at the same time you need to power 2, 3 or more LED strips, then there are 2 options:
Wiring is done in the wiring on an area with a mains voltage of 220 V - then a separate power supply should be purchased for each tape or separately connected area.
You need to purchase a power supply with multiple ports (connectors) for parallel connection of the plugs to power the ribbons. In this case, the total power of the connected tapes must correspond to the rated output power of the power supply.
- But a general rule that must be remembered before connecting a diode tape with any voltage to 220 V
- never connect tapes in series.
- Read also an article on how to connect a diode strip.
- The main mistakes when connecting an LED strip to a 220v network
Let's analyze the most common mistakes when connecting a diode tape to 220 V:
It is forbidden to lengthen the tapes beyond the standard length - maximum 5 meters, by soldering additional lengths to them. After all, the longer the tape, the more energy "flows" through the veins of its wiring. If you lengthen the tape, then, accordingly, add consumers to the tape wiring. This means that already unacceptable currents can arise in it, which will heat the veins and can lead to their melting.
It is unacceptable to connect LED strips connected in series to the power supply unit if their total length exceeds 5 meters. This is prohibited even if the power supply is capable of providing this power consumption. In this case, the control unit plays the role of a maximum limiter of the supplied power. But this power may already be too high for ribbon wiring. And no fuses located in the power supply will be able to protect against melting of the plastic tape and a potential short circuit.
Before connecting a diode tape of a lower voltage to 220 Volts, a power supply unit with a rated power without a 25% reserve is often purchased. As a result, the crystals do not shine at full strength.
- Luminous tapes rated for 12 or 24 volts require appropriate power supplies. It is not possible to connect a 24V tape to a block that only outputs 12V, and then try to increase the luminosity of the crystals by cutting off individual sections of the tape. Before connecting an LED strip with a lower voltage to 220 V, you should make sure that all the links in the chain match each other according to their nominal parameters.
Tasks such as connecting 220 Volt LED strips have different solutions depending on the power of the strips. No power supply is needed for 220 tapes, but you will have to purchase a rectifier controller separately. At lower rated voltage levels, power supplies are usually already equipped with controllers, and rectifiers, and fuses. But the main thing is not to connect led strips with maximum standard lengths in series. This is fraught with the emergence of a fire hazardous situation.
- When creating illumination of the ceiling, niche, shelf, decor items using LED strip, we have to remember that we have 220 V in the network, and not 12 or 24 volts, as needed for this illumination. How to connect an LED strip to 220 V and we will talk further.
Ways to connect to a 220 V network
Depending on the number of LEDs in the tape, they need 12 or 24 V power supply. But in an ordinary apartment or house there is no such power supply, but there is usually a single-phase network. Connection is possible using two options:
A special tape that directly connects to the network 220 V. It represents 20 pcs of LEDs connected in parallel. With this method of connecting to them for normal operation, 220 V. is needed, but this is a speech about special tapes. They, as a rule, go immediately complete with a fork.
When everything is ready, looks simple
The usual LED tape with a consistent compound of a large number of LEDs is connected through adapters (voltage converters), which are 220 B lowered to 12 V or 24 V (different adapters).
Since the ribbons with a direct connection of 220 V in special tools do not need to continue to speak about connecting those that need reduced voltage.
Schemes for one tape
LED ribbon is usually a piece of 5 meters long. If you have enough such length, excellent, just take the converter 220/12 in or 220/24 V. To the input connect the power cord with a fork, to the outlet of the tape. In this case, the connection scheme looks like (figure below) as a sequential connection (one by one) of all items.
Connection diagram of one LED tape to 220 V
When connected, follow the polarity. Plus - to the plus, minus - to minus. These designations (plus and minus, there is both on the power supply and on the ribbon. Do not confuse, otherwise it will not work. To connect one tape, you can take copper wires in a protective sheath (for example, vituy couple), cross section of 1.5 mm².
If the length should be more than 5 meters (2, 3 tapes and more)
Often, a LED tape is needed to highlight the ceiling or other objects. It can be 10, 15 or 20 meters, that is, you need to connect two ribbons and more. Sequentially (one after another) cannot be connected. Through the LEDs that are closer to the other to the power supply will undergo an increased current, which will lead to overheating. They will quickly lose brightness, and then they will stop burning altogether. In this case, you need to connect the LED tape to 220 V in parallel: from the power supply to stretch the wire to one and another.
How to connect two LED tapes to 220 V. One of the options
If physically one tape should be over the other, simply from the power supply of the pull the long wire. Note: its cross section is 1.5 mm². If you connect three or four tapes, they also connect them to the output of the power supply unit with a separate pair of wires.
With such a connection, all tapes will glow equally. Just be careful: you need to choose an adapter that gives the desired voltage 12/24 V with a current sufficient to power all tapes (on how to calculate the desired power just below).
This is a good way to everyone, except that powerful power supplies have large sizes, greater weight and significantly greater cost. Weight and sizes - a problem if you make the ceiling backlight. After all, you need to come up with where this equipment is to establish, which is not always easy. Yes, and the price is also important. Therefore, it is worth considering a variant with two adapters of less productivity.
Connection option with two adapters
Connecting color RGB tape
How to power powerful ribbons
However, if this scheme is connected to 220 V LED tapes of high power (from 14 W / m or more), on each of the LEDs there is a noticeable voltage drop, as a result of the far edge of the tape glows much weaker. If a multicolor RGB ribbon is connected by such a diagram, it can not shine with those colors. To get rid of this phenomenon, each tape is connected to the power source from two sides.
How to connect an LED strip to 220 V and not lose the brightness of the glow
With this method, the consumption of the wire increases, but the LEDs glow more evenly. It has been observed from experience that this method of connection also increases the service life of LEDs - they degrade more slowly. This solution is optional, but it does extend the lifespan and evens out uneven glow.
The connection principle remains the same. A controller (also called a dimmer) is added to the circuit, with which the color of the LEDs is changed. Another difference is the number of wires. After the controller there are not two, but four. Otherwise, there are no differences.
How to Apply 220V to RGB LED Strip
As you can see, both on the controller and on the tape, there are designations 12B / V + - this is a phase wire, R - for connecting red LEDs, G - green, B - blue. To avoid confusion, it is better to use wires of the same colors. Everything will be easier to trace, there will be less chance of confusion.
Connecting two RGB strips to one power supply and controller
If you need to connect several colored tapes, they are also connected in parallel. Parallels start from the controller outputs (two wires are connected to the output terminals). With this connection, both tapes will change their glow at the same time.
The power of the controller (dimmer) is not always enough to control all tapes. In this case, an amplifier is used. The circuit becomes more complex, but it indicates the connectors to which you need to connect the wires, which greatly simplifies its assembly. Please note that in the figure, the connection of the tapes is indicated by four lines, and the power to the inputs of the amplifiers is by two, and this power is taken from the outputs of the adapters.
Connection diagram for RGB tapes with an amplifier and a separate power supply
As many tapes are connected to the dimmer (controller) as it can power. In the figure, this is only one tape 5 meters long, therefore, for each subsequent one, its own amplifier is used. In fact, one controller is "hung up" and two tapes. The main thing is that he can control them (the characteristics of the controller indicate how long tapes can be connected to it).
Also note that the controller and one amp are powered by one adapter, the other two amps are powered by the other. This is also not necessary. If the power of the power supply is sufficient to power all devices (tapes, dimmers, amplifiers), then power will be supplied from only one converter. Another thing is that such a power source costs a lot, and it heats up and makes a lot of noise. Therefore, indeed, it is better to implement separate power supply with two less powerful units.
Selecting adapter performance
There are technical data in the description of each tape. It must indicate the voltage to be supplied (12 or 24 V) and the consumed current. But the current is usually indicated for 1 meter of tape. If you connect 5 meters, respectively, you will need to multiply this figure by 5. If you connect 10 meters to this power supply, multiply by 10, etc.
If you are still figuring out how much the backlight will cost you and there is no tape yet or you have not yet chosen, you can use the averaged data. The current consumption of monochrome tapes of the most common type is shown in the table. They can be taken as an example.
Current consumed by SMD3528 and SMD5050 LED strips depending on the number of LEDs per meter of length
The resulting figure is the minimum current value that the desired power supply should produce. But constantly working at the limit of possibilities greatly shortens the life of electrical products. Therefore, we add 20-25% of the stock to the found figure (multiply by 1.2 or 1.25), round the resulting figure up to a whole. This will be the current that the adapter should provide.
To make it clearer, let's give an example. Let a meter of tape consume 0.8 A, we will connect 18 meters to the adapter. We are looking for the total current consumption: 0.8 A * 18 = 14.4 A. Add a margin: 14.4 A * 1.2 = 17.28 A. So, we will look for an adapter that will produce at least 17 Amperes.
In the case of colored RGB LED strips, the current is added to the found figure, which is required for the controller (dimmer) and amplifiers (if they are powered from this source). This data can be found in the technical description of the devices.
Circuit assembly processIn order to connect the LED strip to 220 V, you will need the LED strips themselves, a power supply, a controller (if needed) wires of the required colors and lengths. Wires are preferably copper stranded (they are softer, but harder to solder) or from one wire. Take colored wires, so it will be easier to correctly connect the LED strip to 220 V.
The following tools will also be needed:
Scissors are needed if you need to cut a piece from a reel of LED strip. You can only cut in certain places. On the ribbon, they are indicated by a vertical line; next to it is usually a schematic image of scissors. Another distinguishing feature is the solder pads, which are located on both sides of the cut line.
LED strips need to be cut only in certain places.
- Next, we take the wires, strip their ends from insulation (2-3 mm), and tin. and we put on the prepared wire a piece of a heat-shrinkable tube of such a size that it would be put on the tape in its original state. Next, with cotton wool dipped in alcohol, we clean the contact pads, tinker them (we lower the heated soldering iron into rosin, warm up the pad for a couple of seconds. It should be covered with a thin layer of tin. Solder the wires to the prepared pads. Be careful and do not take a lot of tin when soldering. Pads are located very close, planting a blot of tin, it is easy to connect them (especially in colored ribbons).
- After all the wires are soldered, we lower the heat shrink tube so that it covers all the contacts, we warm it up. Shrinking, it will close all contacts well. In general, this operation is best done after checking the functionality of the circuit. If everything is on and on, you can isolate.
- Just pinch between two plates
Having soldered wires to the tape, we connect them to the output of the adapter or controller. Everything is simple here. There is a clamping screw and contact plates. We loosen the screw, fill the bare wire (3-4 mm) between the plates, tighten the screw. A couple of times we slightly tug on the wire, checking the contact - if it holds, then everything is fine.
- Before I tell you how to connect an LED strip to 220 Volts, let's divide them into 3 types, with different operating voltages. It is written in
- 12V, the most popular option;
- 24B, the connection principle is the same as 12V;
- 220V, completely different power and connection scheme, do not confuse.
- Basic Rules:
- we observe the polarity;
- do not use power supplies with a different voltage;
- in damp rooms we make sealed joints;
- do not make a consistent length of more than 5 meters;
- sections of more than 5 m in length only in parallel.
1. Connecting a 220 volt tape
2. Diagram of connecting a tape for home at 12V and 24V
3. Correct RGB connection
4. How to solder wires to LED strip
5. Connectors, connectors, accessories
Connecting a 220 volt tape
Connection diagram for 220V
It differs from low-voltage polarized power supply at 220V. The peculiarity is that all LEDs are connected in series one by one or in pairs in one long chain of 60 pieces. You can cut only in multiples of 50 or 100 cm. When one diode fails, a large segment equal to the size of the cut will go out immediately.
This disadvantage is compensated for by simplicity and cheapness, a single piece can reach 70 meters, and for a conventional 12V only 5m.
Connecting a 220V LED strip requires special care due to the high voltage. Better to double-check than to get an electric shock.
Diagram of connecting a tape for a house at 12V and 24V
There are two popular types, one-color and three-color RGB LED strips. Diy diagrams of the correct connection to the power supply unit are very simple and accessible to almost everyone.
The length of a single piece is limited to 5 meters due to the voltage drop at the end. Everywhere they write about it, but no one gives specific values. I measured the difference at the beginning and end on a 3528 diode strip, it turned out to be 0.8V. 5 m. Before measuring, he warmed it up for an hour in order to obtain objective data. On more powerful ones with SMD 5050 and 5630 LEDs, this value is higher due to the higher current strength, the section of copper foil from which the base is made will not be enough. At the end, the power will drop by 16%, and the luminous flux by 6-7%. To compensate for the drop, power can be supplied from each end.
Series connection and extension
If the length of the elements connected in series has reached 5m, then the next five-meter (or less) will require a parallel connection. For ease of connecting the elements together, immediately buy connectors in the form of various connectors and extension cords. There are more than 15 types of them, the connection will be as simple as in the constructor.
Correct parallel connection to 12 volt power supply
Consider the parallel connection of the LED strip with our own hands, it is the only correct one for a length of more than 5 m, other options cannot be used categorically.
A small video on how to connect with your own hands.
Correct RGB connection
Scheme for RGB
Connecting RGB will be more difficult, but using dedicated connectors will be just as simple. They allow you to do without soldering. Soldering is not difficult, it can be done by anyone who has held a soldering iron at least once in his life.
Consider connecting an LED strip to a 220V network according to the scheme for a three-color RGB. The same rule applies, every 5 meters must be connected in parallel. The circuit is distinguished by the presence of a control unit, also called a controller. Depending on the modification, it will have remote or conventional control.
Serial connection of RSL to each other up to 5m.
Using an RGB amplifier for very long LED strips
For long distances, an RGB amplifier is used to maintain the control voltage at the required level. This eliminates the need to lay stranded trunk wires.
Video instruction on how to connect the RSL at home yourself.
How to solder wires to LED strip
As an inveterate electronics engineer, I prefer soldering LED strips, this is the most reliable connection. You can use special connectors that do not need to be soldered. On powerful ones, the current is quite large, the connection without soldering can heat up and oxidize.
After purchasing an apartment in a new building, I had to do the floor screed and paint the walls in 3 layers. The apartment was very humid for a long time due to the large amount of water used on the floor and walls. This was manifested strongly, for example, kitchen salt in a crumbly salt shaker formed a stone. Electronics also does not like such conditions, contacts begin to sour. For a long time, airing did not help, I have no sunny side, the air is cold even in the heat. The new building is not warmed up and froze even in the hot summer.
Cutting can only be done between segments of 3 LEDs. This location is marked with a scissors symbol and is located next to the contact pads.